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tuscany
Few other regions of Italy can boast an artistic history which is so profound and deep-rooted in both the land and popular culture as that of Tuscany. This is a land of astonishing artistic, historical, cultural, monumental and urban variety. Besides the obvious and indisputable beauty of spectacular cities like Florence, Siena and Lucca, there are as many lesser-known art and historical ‘jewels’ in Tuscany which you can read about further in the following alternative travel itineries.the Chiana valley
Of the localities which constellate La Val di Chiana, there are many which are worthy of note. Castiglion Fiorentino. This town, with roman origins, has conserved intact its medieval city walls, which are dominated by the fortress of Cassero. The historical city centre is entirely made up of impressive civil and holy buildings. In the 1500AD town hall there is a splendid library and a museum with paintings and tableau dating from 1200AD to 1500AD and valuable pieces of antique jewellery. Near Castiglion there is the castle of Montecchio, deserving of a visit for its beauty and also for its stunning panoramas.Cortona. The imposing outline of this city’s Cyclopean masonry, albeit with slight medieval modifications, can still be seen today. However, the prevalent character of Cortona’s buildings is medieval. Due to Cortona’s elevated position (approx 600m), every point in the city offers magnificent views of all of La Val di Chiana. In the Museo Diocesano (Diocesian museum), apart from works by Luca Signorelli (a native of Cortona), there is a splendid “Annunciazione” (Annunciation) by Beato Angelico. In the locality of Calcinaio there is the delightful 1500AD temple of Santa Maria delle Grazie.
Lucignano. The town of Lucignano retains the original circular town plan, which originated from the castle’s foundations and developed with streets inside the walls built in concentric circles. The buildings, built between the 13th and 18th centuries, are nearly all perfectly conserved and give the town a dignified look, further accentuated by the solid form of the fortress, dating back to the 15th century. In the town hall, rich in frescos by the Sienese and Aretina schools, there is a small museum, notable for the esteemed works of art and furnishings which are conserved here.
Monte San Savino. Despite probably being of roman origins, in the Middle Ages town walls were built and a well-populated town grew within, turning Monte San Savino into a type of fortress. This was the home land of the great renaissance sculptor Andrea Contucci, known as Sansovino, and of Pope Julius III. Many of the buildings here are in medieval or renaissance architectural style, from which we would deem the following noteworthy: the church of San Giovanni Battista (John the Baptist) which has a doorway by Sansovino; the 14th century church of Sant Agostino (Augustine) which has works of art by Vasari and other works dating back to the 15th century; the Loggia del Mercato, a stunning work of art which faces the Monte family palace, built by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio.
the sienese Chianti region
Castellina in Chianti. Situated on a panoramic hill, covered in vines, this town dominates the three valleys of Arbia, Pesa and Elsa. The fortress, which dominates the town, hosts a museum with Etruscan exhibits.Radda in Chianti. Situated in the heart of the Chianti region, Radda is surrounded by woods, vineyards, castles and ancient churches. It still retains the original medieval city walls encircling the town which grew around the 14th century church of San Niccolò (Nicholas) and the older Palazzo Pretorio. In Radda, there is the Fattoria Vignale, the historical seat of the Classical Chianti society, the renowned “Gallo Nero”. In the surrounding area, the Castello di Volpaia (Fox-hole Castle), constructed in the 12th century and preserving all of its medieval character, is worth a visit. Indeed, as is the Badia di Coltibuono, a monastery founded in 1049. This romantic church, with its imposing bell-tower, is cocooned by huge woodlands of white fir trees making it a perfect setting in which to enjoy breathtaking walks and staggering views of the Arno valley and Mount Casentino.
Gaiole in Chianti. Hills cloaked in olive groves and vines border this ancient market town. On the outskirts of Gaiole, (about 2kms away), there is Vertine, a fortified village which dates back to the 12th century and which has remained unchanged.
Meleto. Driving for about 1km along a picturesque road which winds through vineyards, you reach the Castello di Melato, a wonderful example of a fortified estate. Dating back to the 12th century, the castle has two circular towers, frescoed reception rooms, loggias, courtyards and a small 1700AD theatre.
San Giusmè. This splendid fortified village, which dates back to at least the 9th century, has kept, almost completely unblemished, its medieval structure, walls and two ancient doors.
Castelnuovo Berardenga. In the 14th century the Sienese constructed a castle which was positioned on a hill dominating the Ombrone and Malena valleys. At the end of the 18th century, Villa Chigi was built on the ruins of this castle and was framed by a large park. Most deserving of a visit is the parish priest’s church, containing a ‘Madonna and baby’ by Giovanni di Paolo and a tableau by Andrea di Niccolò. The Castello di Quattro Torri stands on the outskirts of Vico d’Arbia. So-called for its four large towers which mark the perimeter, the castle, dating back to the 14th to 15th century, retains an elegant and well-conserved courtyard.
the parishes and castles of Lunigiana
Castello Malaspina. This privately owned castle is a solid and majestic construction. It is situated at the edge of a medieval village which is stretched along a ridge of hills and distiguishes the surrounding landscape. It is possible to visit the castle, inside which there is collection of furnishings, weapons and period objects, by making an entrance payment.The Fortezza della Brunella and the Natural History museum of Lucignano stand in the locality of Aulla. The fortress (possibly called Brunella because of the colour of the rock from which it was constructed) is a commanding, square-shaped building. Typical of a fortification planned for defence with firearms, the fortress was built at the beginning of 1500AD (possibly from a design by Giovanni dalla Bande Nere). La Fortezza della Brunella accommodates the Natural History Museum of Lunigiana, established with the aim of showing Lunigiana’s most important natural environments. The items in the collection mainly relate to the physical environments of the area: lakes, rivers and forests. There is a botanical garden in the grounds of the fortress.
Castello della Verrucola (locality Fivizzano). This castle, with its immense size, is a valuable example of medieval architecture. The building, constructed in 1300AD by Spinetta Malaspina il Grande, is divided into different sections which are overlooked by a quadrangular keep. It also has a series of walls which allow access to the village below. In the 15th century, a church with a beautiful open gallery and stone arches, was built next to the castle. Today the castle is privately owned.
Castello di Bastia (locality Bastia) was built in a strategic position in order to control the road leading to the Lagastrello pass. The imposing structure takes a square form, with circular towers along the sides and a centrally positioned keep. It is famous for the last Lady of the castle: the charming Anna Malaspina who was sent on a diplomatic mission to France to win the heart of King Philip XV.
Il Castello di Bagnone which is characterized by its solid square towers, was the main seat of the Florentine sovereignty in the Val di Magra from the 15th century onwards. It has recently been restructured and refurnished by the owner. With the owner’s permission it is possible to visit the castle, its archives and its highly regarded and valuable library.
Pieve di Sorano (Locality Filattiera). This parish church offers visitors the chance to catch sight of elements of ‘romantic Tuscany’ and ‘romantic Lombardy’ fused together and exhibited in the monumental and evocative apse.
Castello di Piagnaro and the Stele Statue Museum of Lunigiana (Locality Pontremoli). The castle, situated at the summit of a small village, is part of an intricate system of walls and towers originally erected to defend the city. The oldest part of the defences is a semicircular tower positioned on the north side and dating back to the 15th century. The median and inferior part of the castle with its well, court and chapel, were reconstructed in the 17th and 18th centuries. The museum, which conserves a series of steles or Menhir (single archaeological finds), is found in the rooms of the castle. Monuments from the late prehistoric and protohistoric age, which represent armed men and women, constitute the first consistent expressions of art, technology and religious belief of the population that lived in the valley from the Aeneolithic to the Romanization.